Saturday, March 7, 2015

Ogden tintic quartzite



Firestorm V13 FA



Wednesday, March 4, 2015

Undone List

Projects that I have my eye on at Joe's.

The most exciting part of climbing for me is developing and climbing on projects. I have explored and hiked for over 20 years at Joe's, that being said this is the most comprehensive list of projects at Joe's valley proper. There are many more areas near Joe's, but that is for another day.

The LIST!

Far Right of Zodiak , est v14
River Big Bulge - needs a landing
Above Groundation est v14
Groundation arete
Near the Reservour v8-11
Knocking Room v14
Jupiter - needs a landing
Pangan Sit v14
above Big Joe - v15?
Above Tents mom - could be good
Right of Mask of God
Innumerable proj 1 est v11/12
Innumerable proj 2 arete
Back of Sandy Clause v10?
Halloween Arete v13
Rght fork high landing - needs a landing
right of prince of thieves v11
Godsend direct v12
boulder left of Moment of truth v14-15
boulder across the road and up the hill from the mine cart
boulder above the routes cube boulder
Everything at the far-side!

Boulder Ascent List

Boulders of Significance


V14

Spirit Walker v14 - Ogden boulders - 02/22/2010 - First Ascent
Firestorm v14 - Ogden boulders - 05/25/2011 - First Ascent 

New beta has brought these down in grading, however the original way I did them was definitely v14 for both Spirit walker and fire storm. For my own personal history.

V13             

Bleed the Freak v13 - Ogden boulders  05/25/2020 - First Ascent
Marionette Muerte v13 Ogden boulders 03/11/2019 - First Ascent
Cinderella is dead v13 - Ogden boulders 10/27/2009 - First Ascent - note - nobody has repeated it the way I did this originally.
Red Meat v13 - Rocklands - 08/02/2009 - 
First Ascent
Masterpiece v13 - Joes Valley - 03/19/2009
Blood Meridian - Bishop - 12/30/2008
Direction -  Bishop - 12/28/2008
Mask of God - Joes valley - 03/26/2008
Zero v13 - Joe's Valley - 02/10/2007 -
First Ascent

V12

Lucifer Morningstar v12 - Ogden - 06/08/2019 - First Ascent 
Man in the Box v12 - Ogden - 05/27/2018 -
  First Ascent
Prophetic dream of a waterfall v12 - Ogden - 03/02/2017 - 
First Ascent
La Sagrada Familia v12 - Rock Canyon/Joe's Valley - 03/19/2016- 
First Ascent
The Stand -v12 - Ogden - 02/26/2016 - The stand of Scars
First Ascent
Dragonfly stand v12 - Moes Valley - 01/07/2015 - 
First Ascent
Dark Matter v12 - Huntington - 03/11/2012
Euro Roof v12 -LCC - 10/23/2011
Lethal Design - Red Rocks - 04/21/2011
Burnt v12 - Red Rocks - 12/30/2010
Black #1 v12 - Joe's Valley - 
First Ascent
The Ocho v12 - Rocklands -
 First Ascent
Colombian bow-tie v12 - Castle Rock - 
First Ascent
The Zodiak v12 - Joe's Valley -
First Ascent
Pins & Feathers v11 - Ogden boulders - 
First Ascent
Red mans Dust v11 - Ogden boulders - 
First Ascent
Cinderella v12 - Ogden boulders - The original method is still unrepeated. 
First Ascent

V11
Crystal Method v11 - Ogden boulders - First Ascent
Pagan Poetry v11 - Joe's Valley - First Ascent
Ghost of War v11 - Joe's Valley  - First Ascent
Kill List v11- Joe's Valley - First Ascent
Gold Digger - v11 Ogden - First Ascent
On and on and on, etc. etc. etc.

V10
Blue v10 - Hueco Tanks
Angel v10 - Hueco Tanks
Smoke your Wheties v10 - Hueco Tanks
Darkest Star v10 - Joe's Valley
Total Kill Mode v10 - Ogden boulders
Spiral Helix v10 - Moes Valley
Violator v10 - Rocklands
Skeleton Key v10 - Joe's Valley
Hydrogenated oil v10 - Joe's Valley
Negro Negro v10 - Triassic
Etc. etc. etc.

V9
Bartonella v9 - Waterfall Canyon Ogden
Captain’s Wing v9 - Rocklands
Dark Crystal v9 - Joe's Valley
Godsend v9 - Joe's Valley


Poseidon v8 - Joe's Valley
Renaissance Man v8 - Joe's Valley
Prince of Thieves v8 - Joe's Valley
Twilight Delight v5 - Joe's Valley










Routes
First ascents

Maskerade 5.14b/c - Logan Canyon
Black Knowledge 5.14b - Causey
Black Chandelier 13d/14a - Logan Canyon
Crystal Method 14a - Ogden
Leap Frog 14a - Logan Canyon
Zombie Room 14a - Causey
Welcome to the jungle 14a - Causey
Vampire Café 14a - Causey
White Terror 14a - Causey
Wolf moon p1 13d - Ogden Cave
White Dwarf 13d - Logan Canyon
Bloodless Corpse 13c - Causey
Nos Feratu 13c - Causey
Basoon 13b - Logan Canyon
King Toots 13b - Causey
Death Route 13b - Causey
The Pinch 13a - Ogden
John Wayne 13a - Wild Iris



Tuesday, February 24, 2015

The early days

I began hold shaping long before I started  Atxarte Climbing, which I later sold {long Story}, my friends and I would make holds out of wood back in the early 90's and screw the wood holds onto wood sheets, the era of the woody was born. These little walls where located in our bed rooms. Our parents where nice enough to let us build these crazy little training devices. My woody was composed of two sheets of 4'x8' for a grand total of 8'x8', on an inclined angle of course. We would also get 2nd's from Pusher as well. Pusher set the standard for hold shaping at the time.
One of the last holds I shaped for Atxarte.  This is an amalgamation of a few the most popular series.

Monday, February 23, 2015

Joe's Valley Development

Development began in the early to mid 90's.  The first problem I put up was called rat hole v6-v8, circa 94. I continue to make the journey from Ogden to Joe's Valley with my little family to enjoy one of Utah's amazing bouldering venues.

La Sagrada Familia v12 - first ascent 2016
Located up rock canyon a few miles south west of Joe's Valley
perhaps one of the best and most meaningful ascent in my climbing
Godsend - First Ascent v9

Project, Griffon got the fa on this

Zero v13 - first ascent, original method is starting left hand on furthest left hold, right hand small crimp. If the hands are switched to start the sequence is completely different sequence taking one directly to the arete vs climbing up the steep face, and is not the original problem. If the guidebook was worth a $@#$%%^ ^%^&&, it would state the starting holds. 

Masterpiece v13 - original beta 2nd ascent

Zodiak First Ascent v12, did this right after I sent Masterpiece. This was my first ascent consolation prize after Masterpiece was taken from me only a few minutes before I sent.

Black #1 right up the middle, first ascent on Halloween!


still a project....

still a project, one of the best boulders in Joes!

Ghost of War v11, first ascent

Mask of god, this was my vision to keep going right, 4th ascent.

Zero v13, first ascent. Photo by Ryan
still a project

Skeleton Key v11 first ascent

project to the right of Prince of thives

Renaissance Man v7 first ascent

Insurgency v14, need to get this one done!





Prince of Thieves v9 first ascent


Causey oldies


I dug up  few photos of Causey from circa 2001-2003

Hanging out at the Dragons Lair 

Power Pete on a project

Here I am on the First Ascent of Zombie Room 14.a or so. Vampire Cave

Zombie Room


Serendipity Wall circa 2009