Tuesday, February 24, 2015

The early days

I began hold shaping long before I started  Atxarte Climbing, which I later sold {long Story}, my friends and I would make holds out of wood back in the early 90's and screw the wood holds onto wood sheets, the era of the woody was born. These little walls where located in our bed rooms. Our parents where nice enough to let us build these crazy little training devices. My woody was composed of two sheets of 4'x8' for a grand total of 8'x8', on an inclined angle of course. We would also get 2nd's from Pusher as well. Pusher set the standard for hold shaping at the time.
One of the last holds I shaped for Atxarte.  This is an amalgamation of a few the most popular series.

Monday, February 23, 2015

Joe's Valley Development

Development began in the early to mid 90's.  The first problem I put up was called rat hole v6-v8, circa 94. I continue to make the journey from Ogden to Joe's Valley with my little family to enjoy one of Utah's amazing bouldering venues.

La Sagrada Familia v12 - first ascent 2016
Located up rock canyon a few miles south west of Joe's Valley
perhaps one of the best and most meaningful ascent in my climbing
Godsend - First Ascent v9

Project, Griffon got the fa on this

Zero v13 - first ascent, original method is starting left hand on furthest left hold, right hand small crimp. If the hands are switched to start the sequence is completely different sequence taking one directly to the arete vs climbing up the steep face, and is not the original problem. If the guidebook was worth a $@#$%%^ ^%^&&, it would state the starting holds. 

Masterpiece v13 - original beta 2nd ascent

Zodiak First Ascent v12, did this right after I sent Masterpiece. This was my first ascent consolation prize after Masterpiece was taken from me only a few minutes before I sent.

Black #1 right up the middle, first ascent on Halloween!


still a project....

still a project, one of the best boulders in Joes!

Ghost of War v11, first ascent

Mask of god, this was my vision to keep going right, 4th ascent.

Zero v13, first ascent. Photo by Ryan
still a project

Skeleton Key v11 first ascent

project to the right of Prince of thives

Renaissance Man v7 first ascent

Insurgency v14, need to get this one done!





Prince of Thieves v9 first ascent


Causey oldies


I dug up  few photos of Causey from circa 2001-2003

Hanging out at the Dragons Lair 

Power Pete on a project

Here I am on the First Ascent of Zombie Room 14.a or so. Vampire Cave

Zombie Room


Serendipity Wall circa 2009